Vita to Varadero

Vita to Varadero – April 6 to 11, 2011

The day before our planned departure we made arrangements with Tina, the dockmistress, to have the officials complete the necessary paperwork and issue us with a cruising permit to proceed to Varadero. The Guarda Frontera, Aduana and Harbourmaster  came on board for a few minutes and we were ready to leave. Mad Cap would accompany us for the five day trip.

 Waiting for the officials to arrive.

Our plan was to head far enough offshore to avoid the Sabana-Cameguay Archipelago and a multitude of hidden reefs that  parallel the northeast shore of Cuba but close enough to land to keep us out of the major traffic route from Florida to points east via the Old Bahama Channel . We had a few potential anchoring spots identified and would make some overnight passages as conditions permitted.  Due to the nature of the Cuban check-in, check-out procedures and the limited facilities on that part of the coast we did not plan any land based stops. 

 A couple of hours out of Vita we passed this wind farm near Gibara.  The smoky haze was present for most of the trip.

As conditions were conducive to an overnight passage, we sailed /motorsailed through the night and most of the second day. Other than a few cargo vessels in the big ship channel and our travelling companions on Mad Cap, we did not see any other traffic. 

Mid afternoon of day two we made contact with the officials as we approached Paradon Grande. I tried to communicate to them that we would like to anchor for one night en route to Varadero.  

 We put down the hook near the lighthouse and did not hear from anyone again.There was not a lot of protection so we put out 85 feet of chain in 10 feet of water. The flying fish were abundant.

The following day we watched a parade of cruise ships in the Old Bahama Channel as we sailed northwest.  

 After a beautiful sailing day we approached the lighthouse at Cayo Caiman el Faro. We anchored on the southwest side of the island and tried unsuccessfully to hail the Guarda station on shore.  Eventually someone noticed that we were there and made contact with us. We were given approval to anchor for the night but not permission to go ashore.

The following morning we were hailed by the coast guard from Cayo Santa Maria and were asked to provide our vessel name, the number of persons on board, our last and next ports and our nationality. The person calling spoke good English and was very polite.

Boca Chica was to be our third anchorage.  From there we needed to stage our departure in order to time our arrival in Varadero in daylight after another overnight passage.  We anchored just to the south of Cayo Lancanilla late afternoon and watched the local fishing boats. 

 There was no Guarda station here so we were able to go ashore.

 These fishermen declined our initial offer of beverages but returned the following day to ask if we could give them some oil for their diesel engine.  The dipstick they showed us was pretty dry and the residue on it was pretty black. They were in luck as we had a couple of spare liters to spare. 

 In return they pulled several good sized pargo (red snapper) from their hold, cleaned them, scaled them with a bent fork and even filleted a few. Personally, I think we got the better end of that trade.

 This time they accepted our offer of cold Kalik from the Bahamas and asked for the cans to keep as souvenirs.

We stayed at Boca Chica until late afternoon the following day  before heading back offshore.  After an amazingly peaceful overnight sail we changed course at 5:00 AM and headed for the western entrance of the Port of Varadero. The glow of lights from the resort were visible on the horizon off our port bow. Just as the day began to break, a shooting star streaked across the morning sky and fell towards Varadero.  Flying fish were all around us.

 As the sun came up more and more hotels became visible on shore.

Marina Darsena, our destination, contacted us by VHF as we neared the well marked entrance to the channel. Friends on Talisa had given them a heads up that we were on our way in so the officials were waiting to check us in when we arrived. Within half an hour of docking all the paperwork was done.

Holguin, Puerto de Vita and the Santa Lucia Rodeo

Holguin, Puerto de Vita and the Santa Lucia Rodeo - April 1 to 5, 2011

The city of Holguin is a short drive from Puerto de Vita and an easy “lunch” destination.  The central area of the city contains three main squares, all within easy walking distance of each other.  One seemed to be the drop-off point for tourists arriving from nearby resorts and was bustling with souvenir vendors and a few beggars of opportunity. The other two were relatively quiet. 

 This church dominates one of the squares.  One side of the interior has been meticulously restored while the other appears to be untouched. 

This was the view of the city from the top of Mirador Lloma de la Cruz where we had lunch. We did NOT walk up the 458 steps to the cross from the bottom of the mountain.

 One of many examples of public art.

Every Saturday a public market is held in the village of Santa Lucia which is a short drive away from the marina at Puerto de Vita.  Rental car plans should always include a Saturday otherwise you may end up standing at the side of the highway looking for a ride to the village to get provisions.  The Santa Lucia market was the only place we found to get fresh fruit and veggies although Tina at the marina probably had her own sources that we could have tapped in to. 

Our directions to the market were not helpful as the venue had been changed to accommodate the local rodeo.  Eventually we just went in the opposite direction of the people carrying bags of fresh produce.

 The pork was very fresh – and not refrigerated.

Many of the goods on offer arrived by ox cart.

 Ropes of mild garlic (oyo),

wagons full of tomatoes,

and piles of pineapples were priced at mere pennies.

All this for about two dollars.

 Nothing is wasted in Cuba. Your used corn cobs can be recycled as bottle corks for tomato puree.

 We sat in the hot sun for about three hours waiting for the rodeo to begin while Tom went in search of his own entertainment.

 The local constabulary wouldn’t have their pictures taken but did not object to having their vehicle used as a prop.

What would a rodeo be without  concession stands?

 From spit (recognize the hat?)

 to table. Great roast pork buns. Sandwich and a bagged drink for less than 20 cents.

 Get your cold beer here.

 Granizado (slush) - A great way to cool off on a hot summer day.

 Ladies’ barrel racing was one of the main events. One of these riders is wearing spike heeled boots. 

After all the excitement of a road trip and a day at the rodeo we were beginning to run out of clean clothes. There were no facilities at the marina but a boat that had passed through about a week prior to our arrival had left a note telling us where to buy freshly baked bread in Puerto de Vita for less than 20 cents each and directions to someone who would hand wash and air dry our laundry. 

Our attempt to buy fresh mangoes from the church yard was not successful.  It took two people to make us understand that they were not ready to be picked. We passed on the opportunity to buy cheap rum at the Puerto de Vita Social Club. It was being dispensed from a plastic five gallon jug and we did not have a container to fill.

It did not take long for the laundry ladies to find us. We made arrangements to have our clothes washed the following day. When we met her again in the evening as we walked through the village we were invited to have coffee with her extended family who presented us with tiny wooden dolphin carvings to wear on a string. The next day when we went to pick up our clean clothes there was more coffee waiting for us and the family insisted that we share their dinner of black beans and yams before they ate themselves. We were humbled by such generosity from those who appeared to have barely enough for themselves. They in turn were grateful for the few articles of clothing and miscellaneous items that we had to spare.

 Anna and some of her extended family.

Using Spanish for Cruisers to communicate.

This young lady was about to celebrate her 12^th birthday. The new shoes were a perfect match for her top.We had to decline an invitation to the party as we would on our way to Varadero.