Back to Black (Point)

Back to Black (Point) – January 19 to 31, 2012

From Warderick Wells we made our way back to Black Point settlement via the Exuma Banks with a short stop at Staniel Cay. From a distance we could see evidence of changes in the area. I hesitate to call it progress as it is changing the character of the islands and not necessarily for the better. A large marina is under construction on Bell Island with major re-shaping of the island under way.

 Overyonder Cay has put up a small wind farm that has changed the appearance of the landscape.

We spent a few days anchored at Big Majors Spot (home of the swimming pigs) where we met up with old friends and made more new ones. We went snorkelling at Thunderball grotto where we were swarmed by sergeant majors looking for handouts. They obviously get fed a lot and will actually take bits of bread from your hand.

Camouflage beach dog hangin’ out at the Taste and Sea, a new waterfront restaurant on the beach at Staniel Cay.

The road that leads up from the government dock in Staniel sports a sign declaring the island to be the “Home of the Grand Master”.” Grand Master of what?” we pondered.

 We should have known it would be sailing. This man was working on a retrofit to the mast of the LadyMuriel, one of the Bahamian racing sloops. His t-shirt commemorated Rolly Gray and referred to him as the Grand Master. Rolly Gray was a renowned sloop racer who died in 2008.

 Wild cotton in bloom on Staniel Cay.

Our arrival in Black Point coincided with the launch of one of Van Ferguson’s new racing sloops, Seahorse. Seahorse was built for his son, Bo, and was named after a sloop owned by his grandfather.

Q: How many cruisers does it take to launch a heavy wooden boat? 

A: As many as are willing and able.

 Loading the lead, one ingot at a time.

The trial run was a match race between father and son.

That’s Tom in the white hat.

After the match race Seahorse required some fine tuning before the first serious competition. While Van and Bo went to work, Otis was left in charge to work with Tom to make adjustments to the rigging. The rake of the mast needed to be changed and a support added at the stern for the tiller handle. Otis usually works with the construction crew at Bell Island. One of his duties is diving to relocate any conch that might be impacted by the marina construction. Bell Island is a privately owned island within the boundary of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. They are allowed to develop the island but are responsible for protecting the sea life.

 The sloop was rafted to Polar Pacer’s starboard side for easy access to power tools and our on board inverter. We would later tow seahorse to the regatta at Little Farmers.

The longer you stay in one place the more opportunity you have to observe the day to day life of the locals.

New construction at Black Point. We were impressed with how quickly this place went up.

Many residents of Black Point earn a living from the hand woven straw that is used to make baskets, bags and other merchandise that is marketed to tourists.

The woven strips are dried and stockpiled until orders are received from the manufacturers in Nassau.

Cruisers’ luck that the supply boat captains have the skills to manoeuver through the crowded anchorage without playing bumper boats.

Ida’s Laundromat is a cruisers destination where you can get your hair cut too.

 Van and Agnes invited us to their home for dinner. Agnes makes her peas ‘n rices with these fresh pigeon peas from her backyard garden.

Beautifully patterned shore birds.

This castle was built by American ‘second homers’.

The garden tools located nearby were evidence that this was a tended crop.

Staying in one place for a few days also gave us time to get some chores done. The mildew growth on the curtains was getting heavier by the day. I didn’t want to use bleach on them for fear of damaging the material. To my surprise vinegar applied with a discarded toothbrush did the job very well.

 Before vinegar application.

 After vinegar application.

 Tom was able to modify the mounting apparatus for the rear solar panel and dinghy davits in order to make better use of the swivel brackets that enable us to tilt the panel. Now we can get the maximum power generating benefit from the suns rays.

The down side of staying in one place too long is that you will run out of fresh produce. Adderley’s Store was down to celery, tomatoes, sweet potatoes and onions that could barely be still referred to as fresh. The Captain C, already operating on reduced service of three time per month, would be bypassing Black Point this trip as it was too full with supplies and racing sloops destined for the 5F festival.