Crossing the Gulf Stream

Crossing the Gulf Stream – December 9 -10, 2009

We were ready and waiting at North Palm Beach on Lake Worth for Chris Parker’s weather service to confirm that we would have a good weather window to cross the Gulf Stream from Florida to the Bahamas. We waited for winds that were not from any northerly direction and preferably not too much from the east. North winds against the Gulf Stream would make big waves and east winds would be pushing us back to Florida. We got a forecast of wind from the south and southwest at 15 to 20 knots for a short window of about 20 hours which was about the length of time we needed. The closer we got to Christmas the weather windows would likely be shorter and less frequent so we decided to head out.

We charted a course that would take us to Memory Rock then mangrove Cay and on to Great Sale Cay where we could anchor for protection from the weather front that was expected to move into the area shortly afterwards. The distance straight across is about 65 miles. We planned to follow an S-curve pattern for our crossing heading south to counteract the northerly flow of the Gulf Stream as much as possible then changing to a more northerly direction once we reached the Bahama Banks. Our distance to travel would be around 100 miles.

The Bounty at Peanut Island as we left Lake Worth Inlet

We left Lake Worth Inlet with Decibelle at 4 PM hoping to arrive at Great Sale Cay by noon the next day. The wind was from the south at 20 knots as we left the inlet with gusts to 30 knots. The wave height was about 4 feet with a few 6 footers thrown in.

The crossing was like being inside a giant washing machine with Polar Pacer pounding through the waves and taking waves over the bow almost into the cockpit. Tom had the foresight to take some Bonine (sea sickness preventer) before we left but I needed to use the bucket a couple of times during the night. It was my first time to get sick since we started the trip in August. I may not have succumbed this time either except I spent too much time down below when I found out that the bilge was almost full and there was water sloshing around on the floor in the head. It was not too big a surprise asa we had water come in that area before and we really did take a lot of water over the bow. We also knew there was some loose tabbing in the forward anchor locker that needed fixing. We should have sealed it with duct tape like we did for the last overnighter on the ocean! Not a big problem, just keep pumping out the bilge, wipe up the salt water and rinse it with fresh water in the morning.

The next surprise came when I checked the starboard bilge and found it full too. We had never had any leaks on that side before and were a little annoyed. There was not much we could do about it in the middle of the Gulf Stream in the middle of the night but keep pumping.

It was too rough to sleep down below so we took turns napping in the cockpit while the other kept watch. I was in no condition to do any cooking so we both skipped dinner.

We had a visitor sometime during the night. It was too late to save this little flying fish by the time we found him lying on the back deck.

Once we reached the Bahama Banks the wind and seas died down. The stars were spectachlar. I watched Orion as he traveled from our port bow to directly overhead and down over the starboard stern quarter. A half moon came up and gave us a little more light for the passage. I have not seen a night sky that beautiful since we lived in northern Alberta. Even better – the temperature did not drop below 82^o F/24^oC all night. So sorry about the cold and snow back in Canada.

By daylight the sea conditions were much tamer and we were in Bahamian waters. Down came our American courtesy flag and up went the yellow Q (for quarantine) flag we needed to fly until we cleared customs and immigration which would be a few days yet.

Our first Bahamian sunrise over Mangrove Cay, our first sighting of land in the Bahamas

By noon we were anchored at the uninhabited island of Great Sale Cay, well protected from the squalls that Chris Parker assured us would be coming our way over the next few days. The temperature was 92^oF/34^oC. We set up the lawn chairs on the back deck and enjoyed a couple of ice cold beer before going to bed for some well needed sleep. We had arrived.

Our view of Great Sale Cay from the back deck