Travels with Polar Pacer: Cuba. Si!

Cuba. Si! – March 23 to 25, 2011

The alarm was set for 3:00 AM with the intention of pulling up the anchor and being on our way by 3:30. We had made our departure preparations (securing the dinghy, plotting our intended route, packing the ditch bag, etc.) the evening before. At 4:00 AM we left Spanish Wells Bay on Raccoon Cay with two other catamarans also headed for Cuba. With a ¾ moon overhead and the cool night breeze on our faces it really felt like we were off on another new adventure.

Since our chart reader was still not functioning, the plotter would only display a stylized map of the world showing approximate locations of land masses and no depth soundings. We were about to venture into unfamiliar waters without the use of one of our electronic crutches. How did Christopher Columbus ever make it to America?

The banks west of the Ragged Islands are mostly un-surveyed and scattered with shallow coral. Our Explorer Chart Book has a single charted path with waypoints that we found to be reliable for our southward movement down the cays. From our anchorage at Raccoon Cay we headed for a point at approximately 22^o05’ N; 75^o55’ W, where we exited the banks and entered the deep water of the Old Bahama Channel.

By 6:30 Am the eastern sky had lightened up and in the distance we could see the sails of the other two boats. By 8:00 AM the fishing competition had begun and we had three lines out. An hour later our travelling companions had already landed several mahi and a couple of barracuda. We had only managed to snag some weeds.

Eventually we did get a mahi too.

Most of the crossing was done in choppy, washing machine waves using full main and jib assisted by the engine in order to keep our speed around six knots. We wanted to time our arrival at Puerto de Vita, the only port of entry on that section of the coastline, in good daylight.

At noon we were able to make out land on the horizon. By mid afternoon we were approaching the coast of Cuba and could see the lighthouse marking the entrance to Bahia de Vita.

We assumed that the Spanish voices we heard on the radio were Cuban officials trying to make contact with us. I used my rehearsed lines from our Spanish for Cruisers guide:

“Aqui velero Polar Pacer.”

“Bandera Canada”

I was not able to decipher the responses that came back at me but I now know that they were probably asking where we were arriving from and how many persons were on board. I was only able to answer with: “Lo siento, no comprendo.” Eventually a heavily accented voice came on the radio telling us in English to “follow the little boat”.

Alexi, on the little boat, guided us through the marked channel and around the shoals into the well protected Bahia de Vita where we were instructed to anchor and wait until the officials could check us in to the country.

The first person we needed to meet with was Dr. Ronaldo who was busy at the hospital. As it was already late afternoon, all six boats in the anchored in the bay had to wait until the next morning. Shortly past 8 o’clock sharp Alexi arrived with the doctor on board his little boat. In order of arrival, each boat was visited to ensure that no communicable diseases were being introduced to the country. Anyone arriving from the Dominican Republic was given precautionary ant-cholera pills. Speaking very good English, Dr. Rolando asked us a few basic medical questions, checked that our refrigeration system was in good working order and had us fill out three forms. Soon we had our “Libre Platica”, the official document giving us permission to go to shore to finish clearing in. After ferrying the doctor to the next boat in line, Alexi came back to guide us into the marina and dock – med moor style – stern to the dock, bow anchor out in the channel and tied to a mooring ball on either side of the bows.

Five more officials came on board. The veterinarian checked for unacceptable meat and vegetable products. We had none. A customs officer collected information related to our boat, dinghy and GPS units.

A representative from the ministry of the Interior handled the immigration documents. He returned later with our passports and tourist visas. Although the visas indicated that they were only valid for 30 days we were advised that as Canadians, we would not need to renew them until 90 days.

A pretty spaniel and dog handler checked the boat for illegal substances. We had none.

The Guarda Frontera was there for general security reasons.

Puerto de Vita sees about 30 cruising boats each year. From March 23 to 25, eleven boats checked in. It was a busy time for the officials and appears to be a sign of things to come as interest in Cuba increases among the cruising community. Everyone was extremely pleasant and accommodating and welcomed us to their country. By 1:30 in the afternoon the check in process was completed and Tina, the dock master, arranged for taxis to take us to the nearby resort town of Guardalavaca where we could go to the bank and change our money for Cuban convertible pesos to pay for our entry stamp ($20CUC) and veterinary inspection ($5CUC). Sometimes there is also a fee for the doctor’s visit but we were not charged. Canadian cash is the best currency to take to Cuba. The exchange rate is slightly better than the US dollar and the 20% surcharge does not apply. Second best is a Canadian credit card. The transaction is processed in US dollars but without the surcharge. US credit cards are not accepted.