Showing posts with label Man-O-War Cay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Man-O-War Cay. Show all posts

Monday, February 15, 2010

Cooking With Tri

Cooking With Tri - February 1 to 14, 2010

While we waited for our visitors to arrive we had an opportunity to catch up on some laundry that had been piling up. The rules of doing laundry change when you are living on a boat and using facilities that are a little unpredictable. Sorting the laundry has nothing to do with “like colours” like the labels tell you. If there is enough for two loads I sort by ‘tops’ and ‘bottoms’. If there is only one load it may all go in together. (So far I have not turned anything pink!) Some items might have to be saved for a future laundry event. Most articles of clothing do not make it to the laundry bag unless they are visibly dirty or starting to smell or have somehow gotten salt water on them.

In the Abacos we have been able to find ‘token’ operated washers and dryers whenever we need them. Prices have varied from $3.50 to $7.00 per token. One token for the washer and one for the dryer is usually sufficient even with jeans and towels.

The Jib Room Laundry

Our good friends, Tri and Sandra, arrived late Saturday afternoon. Their taxi driver called ahead from the airport on VHF channel 06 to let us know that she had Chi Chi Maru on board so we know when to watch for them at the gate to the marina. To celebrate their arrival we attended the weekly steak BBQ at The Jib Room.

Steak Night

Once dinner was served, Jason, one of the bartenders, provided Rake and Scrape for dancing that morphed into a limbo competition.

Sandra with Jason

‘Rake and Scrape’ Tri

Tom

Chris

Tri

Desmond

We had a beautiful sail across the Sea of Abaco and into Hopetown Harbour on Superbowl Sunday. Shortly after our arrival we had a crowd spilling out of the cockpit onto the backdeck being treated to Tom’s version of Bahamian “well drinks” (more about that another time). That night we started Cooking with Tri. For Tom’s birthday our guests came prepared with eight juicy lamb chops in their luggage. Grilled to perfection on the BBQ and accompanied with seasoned carrots and potatoes from the pressure cooker, they were perfect. We finished eating just in time to take the dinghy over to Cap’N Jacks to watch the Superbowl halftime show. Seeing Roger Daltry and Pete Townsend on stage made us all feel a little old so we returned to Polar Pacer and scanned the iPod for the original recordings from The Who.

During the course of the evening at The Jib Room, Tom and Tri welcomed an invitation from Carl and Sue on Wind Rose to crew for them in Monday’s race at the Hopetown Sailing Club on Elbow Cay.

Tom & Tri aboard Wind Rose

After the race we all attended the “stand up” at the Hopetown sailing Club and were treated to a wonderful spread of hors d’oeuvres.

Hopetown sailing Club Stand Up

While the boys were out racing Sandra and I had a girls’ day out. We watched the filming of a Bahamas Tourism ad, visited the museum, took a long walk on the beach and did lunch.

Re-enactment of Loyalists landing on the beach at Hopetown

The Wyannie Malone Historical Museum contains many artifacts from the Abacos.

Surf’s Up!

We wanted to spend some time at Tahiti Beach and maybe Little Harbour but once again the weather made us change our minds. Instead of heading south we turned around and went north. Man-O-War Cay was ‘Plan B’. Man-O-War is a wonderful walking island. Depending on the direction you take there is a different treat each time.

Heading north along the Queen’s Highway that runs the length of the island you will arrive at The Low Place, a narrow isthmus that joins the two parts of the cay with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Sea of Abaco on the other.

The Low Place

Crossing the island via the street that passes Miss Lola’s Bakery (famous for her decadent icing topped cinnamon buns) will take you to the beach on the Atlantic side of the island. The cinnamon buns are perfect for breakfast on the sand before the search for sea glass starts.

Directions to Miss Lola’s Bakery

Sandra at the bakery

Where the street meets the beach

The street that heads to the southern part of the island soon turns into a winding path that passes by several secluded homes and cottages.

A gate bell to announce your arrival

What could this be?

A bit of humor for the tourists

Storm, Zephyr and Joshua Slocum – Our favorite Portuguese water dogs enjoying a walk on Man-O-War

The ‘Cooking With Tri’ show swung into high gear at Man-O-War. With the addition of a few specialty ingredients to the locally available products fabulous feasts were prepared for the four of us and friends Donna, Howard and Scott. Episode One was filet mignon steak (from Canada) with lobster (from the Bahamas). Episode Two was a three course Vietnamese dinner that consisted of two types of stuffed rice paper rolls and two versions of pad Thai. Half of the rolls were stuffed with grouper grilled in banana leaves with vermicelli noodles and a green mango relish. In the other half, Bahamian lobster (crawfish) was substituted for the grouper. The second course was pad Thai with local stone crab and the third course was pad Thai with chicken breast. Episode Three featured more lobster rolls and a delicious chicken ‘pho’ (noodle soup) with cinnamon stick in the broth.

Grouper grilled in a banana leaf donated by a Man-O-War resident

Lobster Roll in the making

Crab pad Thai

Episode Four started with a green salad topped with Tri’s avocado dressing made with a store bought giant avocado and the juice from two sour oranges we came across on one of our walks. The main course was conch chowder. With on board cooking this good, who needs restaurants?

Speaking of restaurants, have I mentioned that Man-O-War is a dry island? In order to maintain the peace and quiet of their beautiful island home the residents of Man-O-War have decided that no alcohol will be sold on the island. If you want to have wine or beer during your visit you need to bring your own or be creative and make a phone call to the liquor outlet in Marsh Harbour. For a small fee they will take your order and send it to you on the ferry. You may need to borrow a cart from the ferry dock to get the goods to your boat.

Sandra – your order has arrived

Community fundraising to support the local schools is a fact of life for the Bahamian education system. Government funds are not enough to cover the basic requirements. Besides relying on many foreign visitors who volunteer their time in the schools, the complement of regular teachers is less than stable. Articles in the local newspapers discuss a new program that trains senior students to be teaching assistants and the Minister of Education recently expressed his concern that many new teachers have not been paid since they started teaching in September due to extensive red tape.

We were happy to attend the Man-O-War Fair which is an annual event to raise funds for the school on the island. It was a combination of giant white elephant sale, art and craft tables (some boaters had tables where they were selling their sea glass jewelry), a raffle, a silent auction, crab races (with real hermit crabs) and lots and lots of food to sample or take home with you. The advertised start time for the was 9:30 AM but vendors started setting up their tables by 7:30 and had many early customers soon afterwards. We had front row viewing at the marina. Special ferries bring crowds of people from the other nearby islands.

Most of the local people arrive by golf cart or walking

Picture frames made from driftwood

Conch fritters – a Bahamian specialty

Local preserves – I bought some guava jam and some date and lime chutney

The crab race – Tom had #2, Tri had #8

It was a bit rough crossing back over to Marsh Harbour so Tri and Sandra could catch their flight to Canada on Sunday morning. Unfortunately the weather did not improve over the course of the week and we actually plugged in the heater on the boat the last night that they were on board. I’m sure the mercury dropped below 60o F that night!

Wow that week went fast! It was wonderful to be able to share our experiences with friends who are looking forward to making a similar trip in their own boat sometime in the future.



Saturday, January 2, 2010

Island Hopping in the Abacos

Island Hopping in the Abacos – December 10 to 24

Great Sale Cay

Having caught up on a few hours sleep Tom decided to dig out the snorkel gear and check the anchor. Much to our surprise the compartment under the bed where the fins and snorkel were stored was half full of water! The leaks were worse than we thought.

The rest of the day was spent sopping up about 5 gallons of seawater, taking the wet labels off of cans of food (they were already labeled on the ends with permanent marker), rinsing everything with fresh water, wiping out all the compartments and the foam liners and then putting it all back together like a jigsaw puzzle to make it all fit again. Except for a few rolls of toilet paper and a battery tester nothing was completely lost. Some spare bedding needed to be laundered where the zip lock bags leaked. The clean up job put a bit of a damper on our excitement of having finally arrived in the Bahamas but we were able to cure that by looking out at the beautiful blue water and the palm trees on the island.

We stayed at Great Sale Cay for three nights waiting for the winds to subside. Thanks again to Linda and Ian for the champagne to toast the Gulf Stream and make our offering to Poseidon.

Hawksbill Cays

To find your way into the anchorage at Hawksbill Cays the guidebooks tell you to watch for the tire on a post. Yes, the tire on the post really is there and is the only marker of any kind to tell you where to turn in.

An unusual aid to navigation

Our stop at this collection of small rocky islands was brief. Although we were only a short dinghy ride from the settlement of Foxtown we were still not legal to go ashore. Thanks to Donna and Howard and their Portuguese water hounds Storm and Zephyr for hosting a wonderful dinner. The night sky was absolutely clear and we had a great view of the milky way complete with a show of shooting stars.

Sunset at Hawksbill Cays

Green Turtle Cay

This was our first opportunity to clear customs since we entered Bahamian waters. We put down our anchor just off the Government Dock at New Plymouth, dropped the dinghy, and Tom went ashore with the captains off of Malolo and Decibelle to find the customs office and wait until the person in charged returned. The sign said “back in 15 minutes”. Two hours later one of the locals came by, made a quick telephone call and the lady was there in 10 minutes. The next day when we passed the office on our walk around town another group of boaters waiting to check in told us that they had once waited for three days to clear customs at that location. I guess we were lucky. With our one year cruising permit we were set to explore the Bahamas.

The ownership of mooring balls in Black Sound is a little vague. We paid “Donnie” for two nights and on day two were approached by another gentleman who advised us that we were on his mooring ball and owed him $20 for the two night stay. After Tom told him a few times that we had already paid, he eventually agreed to go and see Donnie about it. He did come back and tell us that he got his money from Donnie.

View from the mooring in Black Sound

Sightseeing in New Plymouth does not take long. These were our highlights.

Bougainvilla on the street

The old jail with stairs to nowhere

Miss Emily’s fine dining– great place for conch fritters and cracked conch

Poinsetta for Christmas

Great Guana Cay

As we approached the harbor at great Guana Cay we passed over a bed of starfish. The water was about 8 feet deep and quite clear.

Starfish in the Sea of Abaco

This island’s greatest claim to fame is a beach bar called Nipper’s. We missed the Sunday pig roast but enjoyed the beach on the ocean side and the sunset over the Sea of Abaco.

We used the water maker here for the first time. It seems to work well. It’s amazing that a machine so small can take in the sea water and turn it into pure drinking water.

Man-O-War Cay

The dry island. That means no alcohol sales anywhere on the island. Be prepared. Bring your own. The marina gave us a great rate and was well protected from the wind in all directions.What better place to get some work done, wait out the thunderstorm and go for walks.

What is it?

The puffy flower tree ?

The Queen’s Highway on Man-O-War

One big bug!

The Atlantic side of Man-O-War

Bahamian wattle.

It seems that everyone has a collection of fishing floats

Tom got a start on replacing some of the damaged tabbing. I got out the Sailrite machine and made a Sunbrella cover for the windlass and a Phifertex cover for the front window.

A yellow crested night heron at the dock

Great Abaco Island

Busy Marsh Harbour was a bit of culture shock. After being on the small out islands where the main modes of motorized transportation are boats and golf carts it was strange to see so many cars and trucks. The streets are actually paved and there is a street light.

Marsh Harbour has all of the modern conveniences; banks with ATM machines, an ACE Hardware, a well stocked grocery store and taxis.

The airport is within walking distance if you don’t mind a good walk. We did it one way to meet the first arrival of our Christmas visitors and called the taxi for the second trip.